Understanding Lash & Brow Hair Structure and Porosity for Perfect Results

When it comes to achieving flawless InLei® Lash Lifts and Brow Laminations, understanding the structure and porosity of the hair (both eyelashes and eyebrows) is key to delivering consistent, professional results. At Van Isle Beauty Pro, Canada’s trusted source for InLei® supplies and training, we know that timing and technique matter just as much as the products you use.

Have you ever struggled with the first step (perm solution) processing times, wondering if you left InLei® Form 1 or Brow Lift 1 on too long—or not long enough? The secret lies in analyzing hair porosity and hair structure, two essential factors that determine how the hair absorbs and responds to solutions.

What is Hair Porosity?

Hair porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and solutions. In lash and brow services, porosity directly impacts how the InLei® Lash Filler and Brow Bomber systems process.

• Low Porosity (Low absorption capacity):
  Cuticles are tightly closed, resulting in shiny, smooth hair. Because it’s harder for solutions to penetrate, processing times need to be extended for both lash lifts and brow laminations.

• Medium Porosity (Average hair type):
  Cuticles are slightly raised, making the hair easier to work with. This is the most common lash and brow type and usually processes within standard exposure times.

• High Porosity (High absorption capacity):
  Cuticles are lifted and fragile. This type of hair absorbs solutions quickly but loses moisture just as fast. Think curly or damaged lashes and brows. With these clients, reduce processing time to avoid over-processing.

Why Hair Structure Matters in Lash & Brow Treatments

Porosity and structure go hand in hand. Hair structure determines how lashes and brows sit during the service:

• Soft Hair: Easy to manipulate and usually obedient on shields or during lamination. Sometimes so soft it creates unwanted “waves.” Often requires less adhesive with InLei® Mister Fix.

• Medium Hair: Cooperative and ideal for both lash filler and brow lamination. May need small adjustments during processing.

• Rigid/Wiry Hair: Resistant and stubborn, often shiny with low porosity. Requires stronger adhesion and longer timing with InLei® Form 1 or Brow Lift 1.

Remember—hair thickness doesn’t determine structure. Even fine lashes can be stiff, while thick brows may be soft.

The Hair Malleability Test – Your Secret to Perfect Processing

When performing InLei® Lash Lifts (Form 1) or Brow Bomber Laminations (Brow Lift 1), one of the most reliable ways to check if the hair has been processed long enough during the first step is the hair malleability test. This quick test helps you determine if the eyelashes or eyebrows have softened enough to safely move on without risking under- or over-processing. Instead of guessing, the malleability test gives you a clear indicator of whether the cuticle has been opened properly and is ready for the next step.

👉 Want to see exactly how to perform this test? Click here to watch our InLei® Canada Instagram tutorial for lashes dedicated to helping lash and brow artists get the best results possible.

👉 For brows, check out our Instagram reel on Brow Bomber readiness to see how to identify when the eyebrows are perfectly processed.

Lash Lift & Brow Lamination Timing with InLei®

Using InLei® Form 1 Or Brow Lift 1, processing times are determined by porosity + structure. For example:

• Fine but non-porous lashes may need 10–14 minutes (even if they look soft).

• Redheads often need slightly longer due to low absorption capacity.

• Returning clients may require adjusted times, since InLei® Lash Filler strengthens cuticles with every treatment.

That’s why we always recommend keeping client consultation cards to track previous timings and results.

✨ Pro tip: Screenshot these InLei® Lash Lift & Brow Bomber Lamination timing charts from Van Isle Beauty Pro and save them for future services — your go-to guide for perfect eyelashes and eyebrows every time! 

Why Training is Essential

Incorrect timing or product application can cause damage, from over-processed lashes to irritated eyes. To avoid mistakes and become a confident, in-demand lash and brow artist, we recommend training with certified InLei® educators.

👉 To explore all of our InLei® Lash Filler and Brow Bomber Lamination course options and upcoming dates, click here: Van Isle Beauty Pro Course Schedule.

At Van Isle Beauty Pro, we’re proud to be the official Canadian representatives of InLei® (InLei® Canada) — the same passionate team bringing you trusted education, premium products, and professional support under both names. Different names, same people, same dedication to helping you master your lash and brow career.

Final Takeaway

Perfect results in lash lifts and brow laminations aren’t just about products—they’re about knowledge. By understanding hair porosity and structure, you’ll know exactly how long to process each client’s eyelashes and eyebrows for safe, stunning, and long-lasting results.

👉 Ready to elevate your artistry? Shop InLei® Canada products and enroll in professional training at Van Isle Beauty Pro—your Canada-wide hub for lash lift and brow lamination education and supplies.